Way of Life
I have been going to the beach forever. Some days are warm and sunny. Others overcast, cold with rain. It doesn’t matter, I just like being there. Everything changes at the beach. Tides, wind, waves, the whole weather picture is happening at the beach. Seems like I belong there.
I was born in Honolulu, Hawaii in 1952. Went through high school plus a few years on Oahu. I have some stories about VWs, long boards, North Shore Power, no leashes, tough guys, and the outer islands.
Surfed Australia a lot, New Zealand, Fiji, Bahamas, Costa Rica, Washington State, Gulf Coast, East Coast, and even had a couple great days in Alabama.
Surfing is just the greatest activity for me. I love everything about it. People are great. We even have Christian surfers out there. I always find it funny how surfers play in the most dangerous parts of the ocean – right in the breaking waves.
I ride a 6’3” to 6’5” short board and go whenever I can. Surfing has prepared me for shaping and the love of the beach has been a blessing.
Use your sunscreen.
Keep your waters clean.Live your dreams